Wednesday, March 14, 2012

National Museum of Korea

    Seven locations throughout Seoul have captured my imagination or energies for over a decade – Kyongbokung palace complex, Secret Garden, the UNSESCO World Heritage site Jongmyo, the artsy and traditional haunts of Insadong,  the miles of bikepaths rimming the Han River, the ancient lore recesses of North Mountain and the thousand plus years of history living in the National Museum of Korea.  Today’s blog travels to onto museum grounds and back to a time even before Buddha sought his path to Nirvana. 

     For about 1,100 won, one can ride the blue subway or Line #4.  Stop at Ichon, station number  430 . 

     Any day other than Monday, one can enter the museum free-of-charge.  In that the park surrounding the museum in open 24x7, you can stop by the area anytime, at least for a stroll past 7th century pagodas.  The time chosen to visit defines the wayfarer’s experience.  Choose  between 10:00 am and 5:00 pm  weekdays to experience the never-ending stream of school children passing by thousand year-old relics; the same period on weekends add the crush of families.  Yet by choosing between 6 – 9 pm on Saturday or 5 -7 pm on Sunday , one finds the museum magically transformed into a private gallery, with time to stop, photograph then ponder what lives gave form to  miniature golden Buddhas during the 7th century Three Kingdoms period.  Had some princess, with hair adorned with jade comma- or tear-shaped ornaments, wearing a flowing silk robe commissioned the little relics?




     Gaze upon the grand painting “Mountains and Rivers without End”.  Take a trip along the 18th century Joseon countryside.  Leave the sailboat moored along a Yellow Sea, travel through the misty countryside, ascending pine adorned mountains to where  Sanshin, or the ancient mountain spirit lives with his pet tiger.

     While standing by this ornament, ponder at what Shilla nobleman had once strolled through Gyeongju palaces wearing such a grand gold crown.  It has three tree-like prongs – likely mountains – and two antler-like prongs. As he walked, the jade tear drops danced and gold glttered, testifying to his political and social status.


     At the far-end of a marble veneer promenade rises a ten-story marble pagoda from Gyeongcheonsa Temple.It has been called “Yakhwangtap pagoda,” because of its miraculous ability to cure disease. The pagoda endured the twists of history.  An inscription on the first story of the pagoda states that it was erected in the fourth year of the reign of King Chungmok, which was 1348. The ordeal of this pagoda started during the period of the Joseon Dynasty, when many Buddhist statues were damaged due to superstitions and government policies that made restrictions on Buddhist practices. Japanese invaders in 1907 whisked this treasure away to Japan, only to return it  11 years later, given pressures of media attention and public outcry.
     My favorites are the collection of Buddhas including a towering iron Buddah cast in the 10th century. Many a monk during the Goryeo Dynasty pondered the concept of dharma here.

     Gilt-bronze Pensive Bodhisattva with Lotus Crown” is a national treasure.  The pensive bodhisattva is posed with its right leg crossed over its left knee, while its right hand touches its cheek, in deep meditation. The origin of Buddha statues of this style is the figure of Prince Siddhartha in contemplation pondering the four phases of life (birth, old age, sickness, and death).


     Find yourself at the museum outside visiting hours? No problem. Enjoy the magic.  An early August morning walk may take you past a lotus blossom like the one who adorned the Pensive Buddha. A lonely walk on a cold winter’s day might lead you to the encounter of the spirit of a student of Master Boje.
During a nighttime stroll, some scholars sitting under the gables of the celadon pagoda may invite you to share a few bowls of dongdongju. If your imagination does not conjure up such friendly invitation, show initiative by getting back on the subway, and travel downtown to an Insadong tavern.

Interested in finding out more about the National Museum of Korea? Visit the site: http://www.museum.go.kr/main/index/index002.jsp  or see more pictures at:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/karl_wolfgang/sets/72157625245872797/